The Jewellery Periods

Victorian jewellery (circa 1837 to 1901)

Jewellery during this period was of a more romantic nature, designs were often influenced by sentimental and delicate motifs such as hearts, bows, flowers and birds. The most popular gems of this period were the Garnet, Amethyst, Coral, Turquoise, Seed Pearl and the Opal. Jewellery miniatures and cameos, often in the form of snakes were also very popular. The discovery of Diamonds in South Africa in 1867, increased the accessibility and affordability of Diamonds creating a wider demand for diamond set jewellery. After the death of Queen Victoria's husband Albert in 1861, the nation went into mourning, increasing the demand for jewellery with Black Enamel, Jet and Onyx for the latter part of the century

Art Nouveau (circa 1895 to 1910)

Art Nouveau jewellery (circa 1895 to 1910) challenged the jewellery conventions of the Victorian era. Art Nouveau jewels are characterised by natural sinuous forms, unusual materials and colours, and a dream-like blending of nature and fantasy. The Art Nouveau craze started in Paris during Queen Victoria's final years in reign and blossomed for a brief period during King Edward VII reign. Jewellery during this time was based on craftsmanship with more focus on the design. Soft curves, sinuous lines and pale colours were the height of fashion. The aesthetics of the materials played a more important role rather than the quality of the gems, so stones such as the Moonstone, Opal, Amethyst, Citrine, Peridots and Freshwater Pearls were the main gems used.

Edwardian (circa 1900 to 1915)

In contrast, Edwardian jewellery (circa 1900 to 1915) are lace-like creations with sparkling diamonds and white pearls. Platinum with its cool elegance was the metal of choice. And, then, things began to heat up. When Edward became King after Queen Victoria's death, he and his wife Alexandra set the trend for the "Bell Epoque" fashion. Jewellery took on a new almost ethereal lightness with saw piercing and filigree techniques to match the delicate and lacy fashion. The increasing desire for Platinum bought about the creation of the 'Invisible' setting, where very little metal was needed to secure a stone. with White Gold being developed as a less expensive alternative. Diamonds and Pearls were the most popular gems during this period , with the White on White colour tone creating an air of elegance and luxury. The most desired pieces were the Negligee pendant, Brooches in motifs such as Stars, Circles and Crescents and Bar pins with lacy filigree designs.

Art Deco jewellery (circa 1915 to 1935)

Bold geometric forms, striking colours and a sense of fun, the Art Deco jewels capture the excitement and vibrancy of the Jazz Age.

Growing political tensions, the aftereffects of the war, and a general reaction against the perceived decadence of the turn of the century led to simpler forms, combined with more effective manufacturing for mass production of high-quality jewellery. Covering the period of the 1920s and 1930s, the style has become popularly known as Art Deco. Walter Gropius and the German Bauhaus movement, with their philosophy of "no barriers between artists and craftsmen" lead to some interesting and stylistically simplified forms. Modern materials were also introduced: plastics and aluminum were first used in jewellery, and of note are the chromed pendants of Russian born Bauhaus master Naum Slutzky. Technical mastery became as valued as the material itself; in the west, this period saw the reinvention of granulation by the German Elizabeth Treskow (although development of the re-invention has continued into the 1990s)..

During the art deco period jewellery became more simple, geometrical and of a more linear design with the addition of vivid contrasting colours. Society's emphasis on freedom of expression gave way to new and creative combinations such as Coral & Diamond, Turquoise & Sapphire and Ruby set with Rock Crystal. Black Enamel was also often used to adding a bolder contrast. The geometric & cubic phenomenon introduced us to new diamond shapes such as the Emerald, Baguette, Trilliant and Calibre Cuts, strong influences in the symmetrical designs. The most desired pieces during this era were long dangling earrings, diamond watches, dress clips, flexible bracelets and long strands of pearls.

The Cartier firm, founded in 1847, reached dizzying heights of Art Deco splendor under the direction of Louis Cartier (1874 - 1945). His fascination with exotic motifs led to the creation of diamond, ruby and platinum earrings from which hung jade rondels carved with elephants. Art Deco drew inspiration from the whole spectrum of the arts, the Ballets Russes and the Fauves, Cubism, Suprematism, Neo-Plasticism and Futurism. Nor were its exponents confined to the modern, European world alone: an 'Egyptian' vogue was promoted by the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen, while other themes were borrowed from China and Japan, from Persia and Africa. For more than ten glorious years, Art Deco jewellery, in all its many forms, reigned supreme. Art Deco Jewelry displays through sumptuous illustrations, coupled with a lucid and informative text, the creations of the Haute Joaillerie (the establishment jewellers such as Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, Mauboissin and Chaumet) and of the avant-garde designers: Jean Fouquet, Raymond Templier, Gérard Sandoz, Jean Dunand and Paul Brandt, to whom we owe some of the most daring and brilliant creations of the period. Alongside the jewellery, there is also an exquisite range of accessories: dainty vanity cases fashioned with the maximum of detail in the minimum of space; boxes, cigar and cigarette cases; and a spectacular array of clocks

Retro jewellery (circa 1935 to 1950)

Fashion during this era was soft, delicate and feminine, focusing more on the seductive curves of the figure. The design of jewellery followed suit with more emphasis on curves, glamour and femininity, jewellery became larger, bolder and more fanciful. Yellow Gold regained its popularity and was often multicoloured through combining its alloys. Romantic motifs such as bows, flowers scrolls and ribbons became popular and the increase in Hollywood glamour bought about the 'larger than life' jewellery, cocktail rings, bracelets and necklaces were designed large in size and full of colour.